IndexStyle

A dictionary of design styles, written from the works themselves.

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145

Geometric Sans — Futura printed specimen(CC BY 2.0) · © James Puckett

Geometric Sans

ジオメトリック・サンセリフ / 1927– / Style / Type Classification

It reduced letterforms to the circle, the line and the triangle, trying to build the letters of a new era out of geometry rather than out of the habits of the hand.

Near-circular bowls / Monoline strokes / Geometric skeletons / Machine-age optimism

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146

Humanist Sans — Underground roundel set in Johnston (CC BY 2.0) · © R/DV/RS

Humanist Sans

ヒューマニスト・サンセリフ / 1916– / Style / Type Classification

Keeping the roman's skeleton and proportions without serifs, it stays functional while remembering the hand, which made it the standard for public signage.

Roman proportions / Open apertures / Gentle stroke modulation / High legibility at small sizes

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147

Wood Type — Wood type (CC BY-SA 4.0) · © Michellecornelison

Wood Type

木活字ディスプレイ / 1827– / Technique / Type Classification

Gigantic letters cut from wood for broadside posters created the display vocabulary of extreme condensation, extension and ornament.

Gigantic sizes / Extreme condensing and extending / Carved ornament / Ink scuff and material grain

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148

Copperplate Script — Bickham's The Universal Penman 1733–43 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Copperplate Script

カッパープレート・スクリプト / 17th–18th century– / Style / Lettering

The engraver's thin, fluent line produced the ideal of the written hand, and it settled into the letter of formality, of society and of certificates.

Hairline-and-swell contrast / Continuous strokes / Slanted oval skeleton / Flourishes

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149

Sign Painting — Sign writer at work (CC BY 2.0) · © Peter Dunning

Sign Painting

サインペインティング / 19th century– / Technique / Lettering

A trade that paints commercial lettering with brush and paint straight onto buildings and windows, giving the street a lettering that carries the trace of a hand.

Strokes that keep the brush / Shades and outlines / One-shot strokes / Improvised to the site

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150

Mincho — Kangxi Dictionary 1827 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Mincho

明朝体 / 19th century– / Style / Type Classification

It regularizes the kaisho skeleton into thin horizontals and thick verticals suited to carving, and with its uroko serifs it still carries the body text of Japanese.

Thin horizontals, thick verticals / Uroko serifs / Kaisho-derived skeleton / Steady text-block color

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151

Japanese Gothic — Japanese Gothic on a station name sign (CC BY 3.0) · © Bergmann at Japanese Wikipedia This photo was taken with Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX9

Japanese Gothic

ゴシック体 / late 19th century– / Style / Type Classification

The Japanese sans-serif of nearly even strokes: born for headline emphasis, it grew into the text face of the screen.

Even strokes / No uroko / High visibility / Fit for screen display

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152

Monospace — Sholes & Glidden typewriter 1873–78 — Wikimedia Commons / CC0

Monospace

モノスペース / 1874– / Style / Type Classification

Fixed-width letters born from the typewriter's mechanism, settled as the voice of work-in-progress: drafts, forms and code.

One advance width for all / Widened i, squeezed m / Mechanical rhythm / The air of unfinished work

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153

Private Press — Kelmscott Press, The Works of Geoffrey Chaucer 1896 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Private Press

プライベート・プレス / 1891–1930s / Style / Publishing and Editing

A movement answering industrialized printing: type, paper, composition and binding unified under one ideal, remaking the book as a total work of art.

House-designed type / Handmade paper, hand presses / Margins designed by the spread / Illustration united with text

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154

Fashion Plate — Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1820 — Wikimedia Commons / CC0

Fashion Plate

ファッションプレート / 1770s–1930s / Technique / Fashion History

The illustrated medium that delivered the latest fashion in hand-colored prints, the ancestor of the magazine, the illustration and the style drawing.

Hand-colored linework / Idealized poses / Descriptive costume drawing / Periodical format

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155

Dandyism — Portrait engraving of Beau Brummell — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Dandyism

ダンディズム / 1790s– / Style / Fashion History

A menswear aesthetic that makes a work of the self through tailoring, cleanliness and restraint rather than ornament. From it come the plain suit and a long line of self-assertion through dress.

Perfect tailoring / Restrained color / The cleanliness of white linen / Obsession with detail

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156

Rational Dress — Bloomer costume plate 1864 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Rational Dress

合理服運動 / 1850s–1900s / Style / Fashion History

A reform movement that refused the corset and the trailing hem and redesigned clothing around health and freedom of movement. In dress it is what functionalism is in design.

Bloomer-type garments / Refusal of the corset / Bicycles and sportswear / Form from function

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157

Flapper — Louise Brooks, c. 1926 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Flapper

フラッパー / 1920s / Style / Fashion History

The 1920s woman who made the body's liberation visible in a straight silhouette, a short hem and bobbed hair, wearing the same period spirit that Art Deco gave to geometry.

Straight shift dresses / Bobbed hair / Dropped waists / Beads and fringe

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158

Meisen Kimono — Kitano Tsunetomi, Ashikaga Hon-Meisen poster — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Meisen Kimono

銘仙 / 1900s–1950s / Style / Fashion History

A popular kimono that carried bold abstract patterns and the bright colors of chemical dye on a cheap ikat technique. It was a Japanese modernism, translating Deco and the avant-garde into everyday dress.

Large abstract patterns / Vivid chemical dyes / Blurred kasuri edges / Everyday experimentation

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159

Zoot Suit — Young man in a zoot suit 1943 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Zoot Suit

ズートスーツ / 1930s–1940s / Style / Subculture Style

The earliest street style: suits with wildly exaggerated shoulders and pegged trousers, by which Black and Mexican-American youth asserted their existence in a discriminatory society.

Exaggerated shoulders / Knee-length jackets / Pegged wide trousers / Long watch chains

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160

New Look — Display at a Dior exhibition (CC BY-SA 3.0) · © shakko

New Look

ニュールック / 1947–1950s / Style / Fashion History

Cinched waists and long skirts of lavish fabric turned away from wartime utility clothing and brought the curve back, opening the golden age of postwar couture.

Hourglass silhouettes / Abundant fabric / Rounded shoulders / Formality restored

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161

Teddy Boys — Teds on a street in Southend 1977 (CC0)

Teddy Boys

テディボーイズ / 1950s– / Style / Subculture Style

Working-class youths appropriated Edwardian upper-class dress. Postwar Britain's first youth subculture, it set the pattern for every youth culture that followed.

Long drape jackets / Slim ties / Crepe-soled shoes / The quiff

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162

Mod — Carnaby Street 1966 — Wikimedia Commons / No restrictions

Mod

モッズ / late 1950s–1960s / Style / Subculture Style

Slim Italian suits, scooters and modern jazz made a rebellion carried out through refinement, and completed the marriage of consumerism and youth culture.

Slim three-button suits / Military parkas / Scooters and mirrors / The target roundel

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163

Hippie Style — Hippies in Haight-Ashbury 1967 — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Hippie Style

ヒッピー・スタイル / 1960s–1970s / Style / Subculture Style

Refusing ready-made clothes and mixing handwork, folk dress and secondhand finds, it made the counterculture visible and brought DIY and eclecticism into fashion.

Handwork and embroidery / Mixed folk dress / Customized denim / Long hair, back to nature

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164

Ivy Style — J.PRESS scarlet blazer with white shirt and black knit tie 2021 — Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 · © Matthew.eyes

Ivy Style

アイビー・スタイル / 1950s– / Style / Fashion History

The practical menswear system of America's East Coast universities, whose button-downs and blazers taught a broken-in correctness that reached the world through Japan and became the standard of trad.

Button-down shirts / 3/2-roll blazers / Loafers / Deliberately relaxed wear

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165

Hip-Hop Fashion — Run-D.M.C. 1984 (CC BY 4.0) · © Ian Dryden, Los Angeles Times

Hip-Hop Fashion

ヒップホップ・ファッション / 1970s– / Style / Street Style

Bronx youth culture turned sportswear and gold into a language of self-expression, and in fifty years it travelled from the street to the center of luxury.

Sneakers and tracksuits / Gold chains / Oversize / Logos flaunted and remade

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166

Goth Fashion — Whitby Goth Weekend (CC BY-SA 2.0) · © Christine Matthews

Goth Fashion

ゴス・ファッション / late 1970s– / Style / Subculture Style

The aesthetics of black dress born from post-punk music, borrowing Victorian mourning and horror-film signs to make darkness a communal style.

Black head to toe / Victorian borrowings / Pale skin, dark eyes / Silver jewelry

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167

Lolita Fashion — Gothic Lolita, Harajuku (CC BY-SA 4.0) · © Toastchan

Lolita Fashion

ロリータ・ファッション / 1980s– / Style / Street Style

A Japanese street style referencing Rococo and girls' culture, building a community that constructs cuteness for oneself, not for the gaze of others.

Bell-shaped skirts / Frills and lace / Headdresses / Strict coordination rules

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168

Gyaru — Gyaru, Ikebukuro 2009 (CC BY-SA 3.0) · © Nesnad

Gyaru

ギャル / 1990s– / Style / Street Style

Tans, bleached hair and heavy makeup inverted everything school called correct. Born in Shibuya, it was a communal fashion that magazines and the street updated together.

Tanned skin / Bright hair / Emphatic eye makeup / Shibuya 109 shop culture

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Editorial policy

IndexStyle is not a list of every term used around design. An independent entry must describe a visual language that can be recognised, reproduced and distinguished from its neighbours. Editorial standard

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