Dandyism

ダンディズム / 1790s– / Style / Fashion History

A menswear aesthetic that makes a work of the self through tailoring, cleanliness and restraint rather than ornament. From it come the plain suit and a long line of self-assertion through dress.

Dandyism — Portrait engraving of Beau Brummell — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain — Portrait engraving of Beau Brummell — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Dandyism — Caricature of a dandy, 19th century — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain — Caricature of a dandy, 19th century — Wikimedia Commons / Public domain

Dandyism — Incroyables and Merveilleuses — Wikimedia Commons / CC0 — Incroyables and Merveilleuses — Wikimedia Commons / CC0 · CC0

At a glance

Visual cues

Perfect tailoring
Restrained color
The cleanliness of white linen
Obsession with detail

Best used for

Reaching status through cut and cleanliness instead of color or pattern
Fitting one garment to a body that will wear it for years

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Dictionary entry

Type: Keep any mark inside the lining and let nothing show outside
Composition: Follow shoulder and waist to the body, set length and lapel from build
Material: Fine worsted, white linen, polished leather, all kept by hand
Caution: Assuming that costlier cloth is always better leaves the fit unresolved and the look showy, and restraint, the whole point, disappears.
Further study: Beau Brummell / Baudelaire on the dandy / the lineage of Black dandyism

Related entries

La Sape (サプール)Shared effects: Luxury / Rebellion.Compare Dandyism and La Sape
Fashion Plate (ファッションプレート)Same Fashion History lineage.Compare Dandyism and Fashion Plate

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