IndexStyle

A dictionary of design styles, written from the works themselves.

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145

Geometric Sans

ジオメトリック・サンセリフ / 1927– / Style / Type Classification

It reduced letterforms to the circle, the line and the triangle, trying to build the letters of a new era out of geometry rather than out of the habits of the hand.

Near-circular bowls / Monoline strokes / Geometric skeletons / Machine-age optimism

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146

Humanist Sans

ヒューマニスト・サンセリフ / 1916– / Style / Type Classification

Keeping the roman's skeleton and proportions without serifs, it stays functional while remembering the hand, which made it the standard for public signage.

Roman proportions / Open apertures / Gentle stroke modulation / High legibility at small sizes

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147

Wood Type

木活字ディスプレイ / 1827– / Technique / Type Classification

Gigantic letters cut from wood for broadside posters created the display vocabulary of extreme condensation, extension and ornament.

Gigantic sizes / Extreme condensing and extending / Carved ornament / Ink scuff and material grain

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148

Copperplate Script

カッパープレート・スクリプト / 17th–18th century– / Style / Lettering

The engraver's thin, fluent line produced the ideal of the written hand, and it settled into the letter of formality, of society and of certificates.

Hairline-and-swell contrast / Continuous strokes / Slanted oval skeleton / Flourishes

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149

Sign Painting

サインペインティング / 19th century– / Technique / Lettering

A trade that paints commercial lettering with brush and paint straight onto buildings and windows, giving the street a lettering that carries the trace of a hand.

Strokes that keep the brush / Shades and outlines / One-shot strokes / Improvised to the site

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150

Mincho

明朝体 / 19th century– / Style / Type Classification

It regularizes the kaisho skeleton into thin horizontals and thick verticals suited to carving, and with its uroko serifs it still carries the body text of Japanese.

Thin horizontals, thick verticals / Uroko serifs / Kaisho-derived skeleton / Steady text-block color

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152

Monospace

モノスペース / 1874– / Style / Type Classification

Fixed-width letters born from the typewriter's mechanism, settled as the voice of work-in-progress: drafts, forms and code.

One advance width for all / Widened i, squeezed m / Mechanical rhythm / The air of unfinished work

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153

Private Press

プライベート・プレス / 1891–1930s / Style / Publishing and Editing

A movement answering industrialized printing: type, paper, composition and binding unified under one ideal, remaking the book as a total work of art.

House-designed type / Handmade paper, hand presses / Margins designed by the spread / Illustration united with text

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154

Fashion Plate

ファッションプレート / 1770s–1930s / Technique / Fashion History

The illustrated medium that delivered the latest fashion in hand-colored prints, the ancestor of the magazine, the illustration and the style drawing.

Hand-colored linework / Idealized poses / Descriptive costume drawing / Periodical format

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155

Dandyism

ダンディズム / 1790s– / Style / Fashion History

A menswear aesthetic that makes a work of the self through tailoring, cleanliness and restraint rather than ornament. From it come the plain suit and a long line of self-assertion through dress.

Perfect tailoring / Restrained color / The cleanliness of white linen / Obsession with detail

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156

Rational Dress

合理服運動 / 1850s–1900s / Style / Fashion History

A reform movement that refused the corset and the trailing hem and redesigned clothing around health and freedom of movement. In dress it is what functionalism is in design.

Bloomer-type garments / Refusal of the corset / Bicycles and sportswear / Form from function

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157

Flapper

フラッパー / 1920s / Style / Fashion History

The 1920s woman who made the body's liberation visible in a straight silhouette, a short hem and bobbed hair, wearing the same period spirit that Art Deco gave to geometry.

Straight shift dresses / Bobbed hair / Dropped waists / Beads and fringe

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158

Meisen Kimono

銘仙 / 1900s–1950s / Style / Fashion History

A popular kimono that carried bold abstract patterns and the bright colors of chemical dye on a cheap ikat technique. It was a Japanese modernism, translating Deco and the avant-garde into everyday dress.

Large abstract patterns / Vivid chemical dyes / Blurred kasuri edges / Everyday experimentation

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159

Zoot Suit

ズートスーツ / 1930s–1940s / Style / Subculture Style

The earliest street style: suits with wildly exaggerated shoulders and pegged trousers, by which Black and Mexican-American youth asserted their existence in a discriminatory society.

Exaggerated shoulders / Knee-length jackets / Pegged wide trousers / Long watch chains

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160

New Look

ニュールック / 1947–1950s / Style / Fashion History

Cinched waists and long skirts of lavish fabric turned away from wartime utility clothing and brought the curve back, opening the golden age of postwar couture.

Hourglass silhouettes / Abundant fabric / Rounded shoulders / Formality restored

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161

Teddy Boys

テディボーイズ / 1950s– / Style / Subculture Style

Working-class youths appropriated Edwardian upper-class dress. Postwar Britain's first youth subculture, it set the pattern for every youth culture that followed.

Long drape jackets / Slim ties / Crepe-soled shoes / The quiff

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162

Mod

モッズ / late 1950s–1960s / Style / Subculture Style

Slim Italian suits, scooters and modern jazz made a rebellion carried out through refinement, and completed the marriage of consumerism and youth culture.

Slim three-button suits / Military parkas / Scooters and mirrors / The target roundel

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163

Hippie Style

ヒッピー・スタイル / 1960s–1970s / Style / Subculture Style

Refusing ready-made clothes and mixing handwork, folk dress and secondhand finds, it made the counterculture visible and brought DIY and eclecticism into fashion.

Handwork and embroidery / Mixed folk dress / Customized denim / Long hair, back to nature

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164

Ivy Style

アイビー・スタイル / 1950s– / Style / Fashion History

The practical menswear system of America's East Coast universities, whose button-downs and blazers taught a broken-in correctness that reached the world through Japan and became the standard of trad.

Button-down shirts / 3/2-roll blazers / Loafers / Deliberately relaxed wear

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165

Hip-Hop Fashion

ヒップホップ・ファッション / 1970s– / Style / Street Style

Bronx youth culture turned sportswear and gold into a language of self-expression, and in fifty years it travelled from the street to the center of luxury.

Sneakers and tracksuits / Gold chains / Oversize / Logos flaunted and remade

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166

Goth Fashion

ゴス・ファッション / late 1970s– / Style / Subculture Style

The aesthetics of black dress born from post-punk music, borrowing Victorian mourning and horror-film signs to make darkness a communal style.

Black head to toe / Victorian borrowings / Pale skin, dark eyes / Silver jewelry

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167

Lolita Fashion

ロリータ・ファッション / 1980s– / Style / Street Style

A Japanese street style referencing Rococo and girls' culture, building a community that constructs cuteness for oneself, not for the gaze of others.

Bell-shaped skirts / Frills and lace / Headdresses / Strict coordination rules

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168

Gyaru

ギャル / 1990s– / Style / Street Style

Tans, bleached hair and heavy makeup inverted everything school called correct. Born in Shibuya, it was a communal fashion that magazines and the street updated together.

Tanned skin / Bright hair / Emphatic eye makeup / Shibuya 109 shop culture

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169

Decora

デコラ / late 1990s– / Style / Street Style

A Harajuku style that layers masses of hairclips and toy-like accessories until sheer quantity becomes the organizing principle. It is maximalism worked out on the body.

Masses of hairpins / Layered accessories / Saturated multicolor / Character goods

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170

La Sape

サプール / 1920s– / Style / Street Style

The Congolese Society of Ambience-Makers and Elegant People turns the flawless wearing of vivid suits into a practice of dignity. It is a peaceful dandyism whose weapon is dress.

Vivid three-piece suits / Strict color discipline / Gesture and gait / Festivity inside daily life

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171

Streetwear

ストリートウェア / 1980s / Style / Street Style

Puts a large printed image or logo at the center, and shows the body as a broad face of heavy cloth rather than a silhouette.

A logo printed large on chest or back / Heavy hooded and crew sweats / Loose, straight cut / Sneakers at the feet

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172

Normcore

ノームコア / 2013– / Aesthetic / Subculture Style

The trend-forecasting group K-HOLE gave a name to stepping out of the race to differentiate and choosing a plainness that can connect with anyone. Naming it turned fashion discourse on its head.

Plain, standard clothes / No logos / Deliberate ordinariness / Freedom from style

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173

Space Age Fashion

スペースエイジ・ファッション / 1960s / Style / Fashion History

The couture avant-garde of the 1960s translated the optimism of the space race into experiments with material, using metal, plastic and geometric cuts to present the body as an object of the future.

Mini A-lines / Metal and plastic / Helmets and goggles / White and silver

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175

Soviet Montage

ソビエト・モンタージュ / 1924–1930s / Technique / Cinematic Visual Styles

An editing theory that generates meaning from the collision of opposing shots. Meaning lives not in the single image but in the gap between two.

Colliding shots / Rhythmic cutting / Crowds against details / Inserted symbols

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176

Silent Film Intertitle

サイレント映画の字幕カード / 1900s–1920s / Technique / Film Technology

Dialogue and description were cut into the film as separate cards of type. This is where cinema and typography first met.

Text cards on black / Ornamental frames / Hand lettering / Alternating rhythm with the action

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177

Technicolor

テクニカラー / 1922–1950s / Technique / Film Technology

Brought saturated color to cinema by separation negatives and dye transfer, fixing 'color more vivid than reality' in film memory.

Saturated primaries / Dye-transfer depth / Color supervision / Color-coding dream and reality

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178

Italian Neorealism

イタリアン・ネオレアリズモ / 1943–1952 / Style / Cinematic Visual Styles

Cinema that left the studio to film non-professional actors in the street, taking postwar poverty and daily life as its subject and standing on the side of reality.

Location shooting / Non-professional actors / Available light / Postwar streets

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180

Chiaroscuro

キアロスクーロ / 16th century– / Technique / Painting Techniques

It carves form out of strong contrast and lets light itself tell the story and carry the feeling. The grammar of that light runs from painting through to film noir.

A single light source / Deep darkness / Form carved by light / Dramatic shadow

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181

Expressionism

表現主義 / 1905–1930s / Style / Avant-garde

Painting what was felt rather than what was seen. Warped forms, violent brushwork and unnatural color moved the anxiety of the city and the age straight onto the surface.

Distorted form / Unnatural color / Rough brush and cut / Urban anxiety

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182

Kufic

クーフィー体 / 8th century onward / Style / Calligraphic Traditions

Keeps the uprights short and draws the horizontals long, massing letters of straight strokes and right angles into a band of even height.

Horizontals drawn long / Short angular uprights / Letters turning at right angles / Lines massed into an even band

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183

Persian Miniature

ペルシア細密画 / 13th–17th century / Style / Persian and Indian Painting

Multiple viewpoints, jewel-like pigments and a composition unafraid of empty space paint poetry and history as complete worlds contained inside a book.

Multi-viewpoint space / Saturated mineral pigments / Ornamentalized nature / Script united with image

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184

Kalighat Painting

カーリーガート絵画 / 19th century–1930s / Style / Persian and Indian Painting

Pilgrims bought these paintings by the sheet at the temple gates of Calcutta, where thick contours and bold omission rendered gods and social satire in the same hand.

Thick fluent contours / Bold omission / Watercolor transparency / Gods beside satire

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185

Madhubani

ミティラー画(マドゥバニ) / traditional–present / Style / Persian and Indian Painting

Women of the Mithila region in Bihar have painted these festival images on walls and floors for generations. Pattern crowds out every empty space, and the mythic imagery is still alive and still being updated.

Pattern filling the plane / Double outlines / Mythic imagery / Natural pigments

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186

Batik

バティック(ジャワ更紗) / traditional–present / Technique / Textile Traditions

Javanese cloth resisted with wax and dyed over and over again. The line drawn by the canting builds a pattern system that also speaks of rank, region and rite.

Crackle of the wax resist / The canting's line / Layered indigo and soga brown / A semantic pattern system

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187

Wayang Kulit

ワヤン・クリ(影絵芝居) / traditional–present / Style / Stage Design

Javanese shadow theater works pierced leather puppets between a lamp and a screen, and in doing so perfected a formal language of contour, silhouette and the stylized profile.

Pierced leather puppets / Stylized profiles / Shadow and light source / All-night performances

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188

Kente

ケンテ / 17th century– / Style / Textile Traditions

The strip-woven cloth of Ghana's Asante and Ewe gives every color and every pattern a name and a meaning, so that wearing it makes a statement.

Strips sewn into cloth / High-key gold, red, green / Named patterns / Ceremonial dress

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189

Adinkra

アディンクラ / 19th century– / Style / Symbol Systems

The Akan compressed their proverbs into figures and stamped them onto cloth with gourd blocks. One shape carries one thought, which makes the set a working graphic language.

Figures that carry proverbs / Gourd-stamp printing / Repeating grids / Cloth of mourning and rite

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190

Bogolanfini

ボゴランフィニ(泥染布) / traditional–present / Technique / Textile Traditions

Bamana cloth from Mali is drawn with fermented river mud. Iron reacting with plant dye yields a black-and-cream geometry that records story and protection.

Mud-dyed black and cream / Hand-drawn geometry / Signs that tell stories / Each cloth unique

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191

Ndebele House Painting

ンデベレの家壁画 / 1940s– / Style / Mural Traditions

Ndebele women in South Africa paint high-chroma geometry across the walls of their houses. The straight lines are ruled by hand alone, and the house itself becomes a banner of resistance and identity.

Freehand straight lines / Black outlines, primary color / Geometry across whole walls / A women's inherited skill

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192

Azulejo

アズレージョ / 15th century– / Style / Ornament

Portugal's blue-and-white tile works as the skin of architecture, opening story, map and ornament onto the street until the city itself can be read as a printed plate.

Blue-and-white tile / Narrative panels wall-high / Repeating pattern / One body with the building

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IndexStyle is not a list of every term used around design. An independent entry must describe a visual language that can be recognised, reproduced and distinguished from its neighbours. Editorial standard

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