Kalamkari
カラムカリ / surviving early modern textiles–present / Technique / Textile Traditions
A South Indian tradition of drawing and colouring cloth through mordants and resists. Hand-drawn narratives and block-printed ornament are different branches, often sharing outlined forms and flat colour. Retain distinctions between centres such as Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam rather than using the name for any floral fabric.
At a glance
Visual cues
- Dark outlines separating figures, plants and scenes
- Red or indigo fields beside areas of retained cloth colour
- Borders enclosing narrative sections or floral repeats
- Pen lines and block repetition varying by place and work
Best used for
- Explaining textile narratives and dyeing through examples and process diagrams
- Working with makers on the relationship between borders and scenes in cloth or exhibitions
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Dictionary entry
- Type
- Keep scene explanations separate and identify place, use and technique in short labels.
- Composition
- Define border and central field, then choose narrative compartments or a repeat unit.
- Material
- Make test pieces and record the separate roles of drawing, mordant, resist and washing.
- Caution
- Do not describe hand drawing and block printing as one process. Distinguish printed imitations from handwork and do not assume all present-day kalamkari uses natural dyes.
- Further study
- Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam traditions / The Met — Kalamkari Rumal, ca. 1640–50 / British Museum — Dashavatara kalamkari hanging
Related entries
- Batik (バティック（ジャワ更紗）)Same Textile Traditions lineage.Compare Kalamkari and Batik
- Ajrakh (アジュラク型染め)Same Textile Traditions lineage.Compare Kalamkari and Ajrakh
More from Textile Traditions
Continue through styles in the same Textile Traditions family, prioritised by shared effects.
- Bogolanfini (ボゴランフィニ（泥染布）)Shared effects: Intimacy / Nostalgia.
- Shibori (絞り染め)Shared effects: Intimacy / Nostalgia.
- Ikat (絣)Shared effects: Intimacy / Nostalgia.
Browse all Textile Traditions entries
Cite this entry
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- https://indexstyle.org/styles/kalamkari
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- [Kalamkari — IndexStyle](https://indexstyle.org/styles/kalamkari)
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- <a href="https://indexstyle.org/styles/kalamkari">Kalamkari — IndexStyle</a>