Adire vs Batik

アディレ / バティック(ジャワ更紗)

Both sit in Textile Traditions, so the question is not what they belong to but how they behave. Both are read here as technique. They are reached for with some of the same intent, which is where they get confused.

Adire

The indigo resist cloth of Yoruba women: raffia ties and cassava-paste painting and stenciling reserve white patterns against deep indigo, weaving proverbs and signs into the contrast.

Batik

Javanese cloth resisted with wax and dyed over and over again. The line drawn by the canting builds a pattern system that also speaks of rank, region and rite.

AdireBatik
Era19th century–traditional–present
FamilyTextile TraditionsTextile Traditions
KindTechniqueTechnique
CuesIndigo-and-white resist patterns / Cassava-paste hand painting / Grid-divided imagery / A sign system holding proverbsCrackle of the wax resist / The canting's line / Layered indigo and soga brown / A semantic pattern system
Best used forMaking white pattern carry narrative with indigo as the only color · Dividing a cloth into fields and weaving meaning from arrayed signsCloth and wallpaper needing a density only a drawn line produces · Formal and ceremonial textiles that respect what each pattern signifies
TypeTreat each sign as a unit of proverb, one to a fieldAny lettering follows the pattern grid and never breaks the repeat
CompositionGrid the cloth and rotate fields so repetition never sits stillDivide the whole cloth into pattern units, change rank at the border
MaterialCassava paste laid by hand or stencil, dipped in indigo, then washed offWax resist, then layered indigo and brown, washed keeping the crackle
CautionRepeating the motifs as pattern without knowing what they say breaks the system of proverbs and leaves only indigo decoration.Using the patterns as decoration detached from meaning ignores who may wear them and on what occasion, which turns the cloth discourteous.

IndexStyle