# Phulkari (プルカリ刺繍)

> Punjab's embroidery tradition joining lustrous silk with coarse cotton. Repeated geometric fields and changes in stitch direction make light move across the cloth. Its range includes densely covered bagh and figurative scenes, with strong relationships to marriage, family memory and the region across today's India–Pakistan border.

- IndexStyle No.748 — https://indexstyle.org/styles/phulkari
- Kind: Technique · Family: Textile Traditions · Era: living tradition / surviving 19th-century works
- Mood: Exhilaration, Intimacy
- What this family collects: Ways of getting pattern into cloth developed separately in each region, and the resulting patterns carried rank and even sentences, from West Africa to Java and Japan.

## Brief inputs

Supply these before production. They are intentionally not invented by the style.

- Deliverable and channel: page, app screen, deck, campaign image, garment, object or space
- Subject and message: what the audience must notice or understand first
- Audience and context: where, when and at what viewing distance it will be encountered
- Format: dimensions, aspect ratio, responsive states, slide count or physical constraints
- Content hierarchy: required copy, data, actions, imagery and legal information
- Production constraints: accessibility, materials, budget, image rights and delivery deadline

## Defining characteristics

- Bright silk against coarse earth-coloured cotton
- Repeated geometric fields in yellow or pink
- Changes of thread direction altering reflected light
- Coverage ranging from scattered motifs to dense bagh

## Best used for

- Explaining the relationship between region, family and embroidered form
- Collaborating on cloth or garments whose design centres on thread direction and coverage

## Composition recipe

- Typography & lettering: Separate a small label for region, technique and maker from the stitched pattern.
- Layout & structure: Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.
- Material & texture: Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.

## Colour

Read off the reference works below, so a direction rather than a fixed palette.

- Ground: #E5B945
- The colour it is remembered by: #B64065
- Text and outlines: #95452E

## Evidence and rights boundary

- Treat the source of record and reference works below as evidence for understanding the style, not as assets to reproduce.
- The AI interpretation image, when present, is a browsing aid only. It is neither a reference work nor evidence for the definition.
- For a branded design system, translate hierarchy, spacing, colour roles and component logic into an unrelated fictional service. Do not copy logos, proprietary type, icons, product copy, screenshots or exact component geometry.
- For a regional, Indigenous or community-rooted tradition, retain place, authorship and historical context. Do not combine unrelated motifs or reduce the entry to generic ethnic decoration.
- For fashion and subculture, distinguish documentary context from a costume prompt; use fictional adults and avoid real labels, public figures and caricature.
- Record the rights status and intended use of every supplied image, typeface, logo and quotation before production.

## Translate it by medium

The rules below preserve the visual grammar without copying a historical artefact literally.

### Web and app

- Page structure: translate “Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.” into the hero, section rhythm and information hierarchy.
- Type system: use “Separate a small label for region, technique and maker from the stitched pattern.” for display moments and short labels. Keep body copy, navigation, forms and status text in a highly legible companion when the display treatment reduces clarity.
- Components and imagery: carry “Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.” through image treatment, borders, dividers, cards and selected surfaces; do not decorate every component equally.
- Tokens: begin with #E5B945 as the ground, #B64065 as the memorable colour, and #95452E for text, outlines and high-contrast detail. Assign colours by semantic role before tuning individual components.
- Presentation: render the screen itself as the design artefact. Add a phone, browser chrome or perspective mockup only when the deliverable explicitly asks for one.
- Responsive behaviour: preserve hierarchy, alignment logic and the dominant cue when columns collapse; do not reproduce a desktop composition by merely shrinking it.
- Usability gate: keyboard focus, action labels, contrast, zoom and reduced-motion behaviour remain explicit even when the historical style did not account for them.

### Slides and decks

- Title slide: express one idea with the strongest scale, alignment or framing move from “Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.”.
- Content slides: keep the reading layer quieter than the title layer. Use one dominant characteristic per slide and repeat the same grid, margins and type roles across the deck.
- Images and surfaces: art-direct crops, masks, rules and backgrounds with “Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.” rather than adding unrelated decoration.
- Charts and diagrams: use #E5B945 as the ground, #B64065 as the memorable colour, and #95452E for text, outlines and high-contrast detail; preserve labels and numerical contrast before stylistic treatment.
- Presentation: deliver a flat slide canvas by default. A photographed screen, laptop or conference room is a different deliverable and must be requested explicitly.
- Sequence: alternate emphatic slides with quiet explanatory slides so the style has rhythm instead of becoming constant noise.

### Image generation and art direction

- Subject: choose one concrete subject that serves one of the uses above; the style is the treatment, not the subject.
- Composition: build the frame from “Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.”. Make the focal hierarchy readable before adding texture.
- Lettering and graphic marks: follow “Separate a small label for region, technique and maker from the stitched pattern.”. If text is not essential, omit it; if it is essential, use short neutral wording and reject illegible pseudo-text.
- Surface, light and finish: interpret “Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.” as material, texture, edge quality, depth and lighting rather than as a generic filter.
- Effect discipline: gradients, bloom, glass, chrome, heavy shadows, grain and distressed paper are off by default unless the material direction names or clearly requires them.
- Cliché test: remove the most obvious period prop or motif. The style should still read through composition, type, colour relation and material behaviour.
- Set direction: make a clear establishing composition, a changed crop or viewpoint, a material/detail study, and a reduced alternate. Keep the visual grammar stable while changing the framing.
- Ready-to-run prompt: https://indexstyle.org/styles/phulkari/prompt.txt

### Styling, objects and spaces

- Silhouette and proportion: translate “Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.” into the distribution of volume, balance, symmetry or asymmetry.
- Materials and finish: start from “Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.”; choose real materials whose behaviour supports the style instead of printing a motif onto an unrelated surface.
- Graphic detail: apply “Separate a small label for region, technique and maker from the stitched pattern.” only where lettering, labels, trims or wayfinding have a reason to exist.
- Palette: use #E5B945 as the ground, #B64065 as the memorable colour, and #95452E for text, outlines and high-contrast detail. Let one role dominate, one support and one provide legibility or edge definition.
- Edit: carry two or three defining characteristics strongly. Avoid turning every characteristic into a literal prop or costume reference.

## What to avoid

The name's association with flowers does not limit it to floral embroidery. Retain Punjab's cross-border history and treat bagh as a form within the tradition rather than an unrelated extra style.

## Application checklist

Work through this before calling a piece an application of this style.

- [ ] The deliverable, subject, audience, format and content priority are explicit
- [ ] One characteristic is dominant and at least two others support it
- [ ] Visible in the piece: Bright silk against coarse earth-coloured cotton
- [ ] Visible in the piece: Repeated geometric fields in yellow or pink
- [ ] Visible in the piece: Changes of thread direction altering reflected light
- [ ] Visible in the piece: Coverage ranging from scattered motifs to dense bagh
- [ ] The layout follows: Decide where ground remains visible and where stitches cover it; repeat changes in thread direction.
- [ ] The lettering follows: Separate a small label for region, technique and maker from the stitched pattern.
- [ ] The material and surface follow: Combine rough cotton with lustrous threads and use their reflection rather than a printed flat colour to build the surface.
- [ ] The colour relation holds: #E5B945 as ground, #B64065 carrying the style, #95452E for text and outlines
- [ ] The result still works without the decorative layer: hierarchy, reading order and primary action remain clear
- [ ] Responsive, accessibility or physical-production constraints have been checked for the chosen medium
- [ ] No AI interpretation image has been used as evidence or copied as a visual reference
- [ ] Logos, proprietary type, exact interface geometry and existing artwork compositions have been excluded unless separately licensed
- [ ] Community, regional or subcultural context has been preserved where it is part of the style
- [ ] At least one reference work below has been studied directly
- [ ] The caution above ("What to avoid") has been addressed

## Related styles

- **Kantha (カンタ刺繍)** — A Bengali textile tradition of layering worn cloth and joining it with running stitches and embroidery. Stitch paths create ripples and rhythms around images and geometric forms. Reused material and each maker's composition distinguish these household textiles from quilting as a general technique. → https://indexstyle.org/styles/kantha
- **Kente (ケンテ)** — The strip-woven cloth of Ghana's Asante and Ewe gives every color and every pattern a name and a meaning, so that wearing it makes a statement. → https://indexstyle.org/styles/kente

## Compose it with something else

The dictionary can put this entry in a structural role and another in an accent role, and report where the two fight: https://indexstyle.org/compose?ids=phulkari+kantha

## Further study

- Philadelphia Museum of Art — pre-Partition phulkari
- Bagh, chope and sainchi examples
- V&A — Phulkari and floss-silk embroidery

## Reference works

- Punjab embroidered shawl — photo: Kritzolina — Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Embroidery%20on%20a%20shawl%20from%20Punjab%2001.jpg
- Punjab embroidered shawl, front and reverse — photo: Kritzolina — Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Embroidery%20on%20a%20shawl%20from%20Punjab%2006.jpg

## Source of record

- Philadelphia Museum of Art — Phulkari: The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab — https://press.philamuseum.org/phulkari-the-embroidered-textiles-of-punjab-from-the-jill-and-sheldon-bonovitz-collection/

## Machine surfaces

- JSON: https://indexstyle.org/api/styles/phulkari
- Image-generation prompt (legally clean): https://indexstyle.org/styles/phulkari/prompt.txt
- MCP: https://indexstyle.org/mcp (tools: search_styles, get_style, compare_styles, compose_styles, find_related_styles; prompts: image-prompt, apply-style)