{"id":"farthingale-silhouette","no":689,"name":"Spanish Farthingale Silhouette","ja":"スパニッシュ・ファージンゲール","sourceSlug":"spanish-farthingale","era":"late 15th–early 17th century","family":"ファッション史","kind":"スタイル","essence":"裾へ向かって大きくなる輪をスカートへ組み込み、腰から床まで硬い円錐・三角形を作るスペイン起源の宮廷服シルエット。布の皺を抑え、直立する胴、狭い腰、広い裾を一続きの幾何へ固定する。","cues":["腰から裾へ直線的に開く円錐・三角形の輪郭","水平輪が下へ行くほど大きくなり、表布の皺を抑える","高い襟またはruff、硬い胴、長い縦線との組合せ","黒、深色、金糸、宝飾を左右対称の宮廷構成へ集める"],"intents":["高級","信頼","高揚"],"pair":["pannier-silhouette","mannerism"],"study":["late-fifteenth-century Spanish verdugado","sixteenth-century Spanish and Tudor court dress","farthingale, wheel farthingale and later guardainfante"],"works":["16世紀のスペイン・Tudor宮廷衣装で、円錐形の外形を内部構造から復元するとき","肖像、舞台、展示で、直立する上半身と幾何学的な裾を一体の権威表現にするとき"],"recipe":{"type":"細く高いセリフを中央軸へ揃え、文字幅で円錐の裾をなぞらない。","layout":"肩、胴、腰を垂直な中央軸へ固定し、腰から裾へ左右同角度の直線を引いて輪の直径を決める。","material":"軽い輪材を段階的に拡大して布へ固定し、上布は張りを持たせながら輪の段差を拾わないよう下布を挟む。"},"avoid":"Pannierの横長形や後世のCrinolineと混同しない。国家・宮廷・身分の文脈を消した“中世風”へ丸めず、呼吸、歩行、火気、転倒の安全を現代基準で再設計する。","colors":["#1E1C20","#7A2532","#C3A055"],"motif":"silhouette","collection":"Dictionary expansion 39","addedAt":"2026-08-23","source":{"title":"FIT Fashion History Timeline — Spanish Farthingale Silhouette","url":"https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/spanish-farthingale/"},"reference":{"status":"verified","pageUrl":"https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/spanish-farthingale/","credit":"FIT Fashion History Timeline — Spanish Farthingale Silhouette"},"en":{"essence":"A Spanish court-dress silhouette formed by hoops increasing toward the floor, fixing the skirt into a rigid cone or triangle from waist to hem. It suppresses folds and joins an upright torso, narrow waist, and broad base into one geometry.","cues":["A cone or triangle opening in straight lines from waist to floor","Horizontal hoops increasing downward while suppressing surface folds","High collar or ruff, rigid torso, and long verticals","Black or deep color, gold thread, and jewels organized symmetrically"],"works":["Reconstructing sixteenth-century Spanish or Tudor court dress from its conical support","Joining an upright upper body and geometric skirt into an authoritative portrait, stage, or exhibit silhouette"],"recipe":{"type":"Align tall narrow serif type to the center; do not trace the skirt cone with lettering.","layout":"Fix shoulder, torso, and waist on one vertical axis, then set equal straight angles from waist to hem to derive hoop diameters.","material":"Increase lightweight hoop sizes in steps, secure them to cloth, and add a smooth underlayer so the outer fabric does not record each ring."},"avoid":"Do not confuse it with Pannier width or later Crinoline. Preserve the Spanish court, state, and rank context instead of flattening it into medieval fantasy, and redesign breathing, walking, flame, and fall safety.","study":["late-fifteenth-century Spanish verdugado","sixteenth-century Spanish and Tudor court dress","farthingale, wheel farthingale and later guardainfante"]},"usage":{"license":"CC-BY-4.0","licenseName":"Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International","licenseUrl":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","attribution":"IndexStyle — https://indexstyle.org","attributionUrl":"https://indexstyle.org","scope":"Original IndexStyle text and structured data. Reference images, quoted works, and third-party material are excluded and retain their own rights."}}