{"id":"black-dandyism","no":548,"name":"Black Dandyism","ja":"ブラック・ダンディズム","era":"18th century–","family":"ファッション史","kind":"スタイル","collection":"Dictionary expansion 27","addedAt":"2026-08-22","source":{"title":"The Metropolitan Museum of Art — Superfine: Tailoring Black Style","url":"https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/superfine-tailoring-black-style"},"reference":{"status":"verified","pageUrl":"https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/superfine-tailoring-black-style","credit":"The Metropolitan Museum of Art — Superfine: Tailoring Black Style"},"essence":"仕立てた服と所作を自己形成の手段にし、人種化された見られ方を自ら編集し返す装いの系譜。華美か抑制かという一つの見た目ではなく、規範を熟知した上で細部をずらし、尊厳、抵抗、アイデンティティを同時に表す。","cues":["身体に合わせた精密な仕立て","帽子、襟、タイ、靴まで統制された全身","古典的な紳士服に色・柄・所作のずれを入れる","肖像として正面から自信を持って見せる"],"intents":["高級","反骨","信頼"],"works":["服装を単なる流行ではなく、自己決定と尊厳の表明として見せる肖像や展示","古典的なテーラリングを、着る人の文化と所作から読み替えるスタイリング"],"recipe":{"type":"文字は古典的な端正さを保ちつつ、名前や引用の一箇所だけに個人の声を強く出す。","layout":"全身と視線を主役にし、帽子から靴まで切らずに見せる。背景は服の細部を読むために抑える。","material":"上質な仕立て地を基礎に、色・柄・装身具のどこか一つで規範を意図的にずらす。"},"avoid":"派手なスーツという見た目だけを借りると、装いを通じた自己形成と抵抗の歴史が消え、人物を異国趣味として消費する。","colors":["#18233A","#B43B4C","#E7C66B"],"motif":"fashion","pair":["dandyism","sapeur"],"study":["18世紀から現代までのBlack dandyism","self-fashioningと抵抗","仕立てと肖像の関係"],"en":{"essence":"A lineage of using tailoring and bearing as self-fashioning, editing back against a racialized gaze. It is not one level of ornament: it knows the codes, shifts the details, and carries dignity, resistance and identity at once.","cues":["Precise tailoring fitted to the body","A complete line from hat and collar to tie and shoe","Color, pattern or gesture shifting classic menswear codes","Confident, frontal self-presentation"],"works":["Portraiture and exhibitions where dress operates as self-determination and dignity","Reinterpreting classic tailoring through the wearer's culture and bearing"],"recipe":{"type":"Keep a classical discipline, then let the person's name or words break forward in one place.","layout":"Show the full figure and gaze without cutting off hat or shoes; quiet the ground so details remain legible.","material":"Begin with fine tailoring, then deliberately shift one element of color, pattern or jewelry."},"avoid":"Reducing the lineage to colorful suits erases its history of self-fashioning and resistance and turns the wearer into spectacle.","study":["Three centuries of Black dandyism","Self-fashioning and resistance","Tailoring and portraiture"]},"usage":{"license":"CC-BY-4.0","licenseName":"Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International","licenseUrl":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","attribution":"IndexStyle — https://indexstyle.org","attributionUrl":"https://indexstyle.org","scope":"Original IndexStyle text and structured data. Reference images, quoted works, and third-party material are excluded and retain their own rights."}}